Feb 17th, 2008
See the bears at Brooks River Falls in Katmai National Park
Just as another four inches of snow piled up on the deck, I received my 2008 brochure from the folks at Brooks Lodge. That’s the lodge right at Brooks River, where all the bears gather at the falls to eat fish. And there are lots of fish.It’s also the headquarters for Katmai National Park. There’s lots going on here. Even though it’s snowing outside, you might consider planning your expedition right away.
When your floatplane lands form either King Salmon or Kulik Lodge, your first stop is “bear school”.
(Photo: Lodge owner Sonny Petersen pulls his plane up to the beach at Grosvenor Camp)
“Bear School” is run by the National Park Service and it gives you an overview of how to get along with the many bears that wander around the area. You know: don’t feed them. Things like that. Once you’re done with that you’re free to wander up to the viewing platform at the falls to see the bears. Half the show is watching all the photographers set up their fancy telephoto gear. Honestly, you do not need a telephoto lens to get pictures of the bears. Chances are you will stumble upon one as you get on the bus, round the corner, walk out of the lodge, etc. They’re all over. But-you know–the photographers are trying to match up that perfect shot of the bear chomping on the salmon which is jumping out of the water to get above the falls. Snap-snap-snap go the cameras. Chomp-chomp-chomp go the bears. Fun!
While you’re staying at Brooks Camp, make plans to go on the full-day tour to the Valley of the 10,000 Smokes. This is a must-see. MUST-SEE. You take this monster 8-wheel-drive super-mod school bus on the road up to an observation post overlooking the valley. You arrive just in time for lunch–a sandwich, chips and beverage. Then, you hike down to the Valley floor to the Ukak River. Learn about the incredible explosion of Novarupta Volcano in 1912–and how it formed the valley. The entire valley is blanketed with lava and pumice–and it’s incredible to see how the Ukak River has carved a huge canyon through the soft rock.
Anglers love Katmai National Park. They call it “Angler’s Paradise”. Actually, Angler’s Paradise was there before the park. Sonny Petersen’s family has a collection of two lodges, in addition to Brooks Camp, where fishermen can hang out while casting for trophy rainbows, arctic char and a variety of salmon.
Instead of “Angler’s Paradise”, I call it “Sunken Camera Paradise”. That’s because on two separate occasions, I killed my fancy digital cameras. Once I walked into the river with my camera in my pocket. Another time I went swimming–swept off my feet and rescued by my guide–with my camera in my pocket.
HA! I remember after my brief swim, I’d wrung the water out of my clothes while balanced on a rock at the top of a small island. I was in the middle of the river–and I knew I’d have to walk back across the same stretch. But my guide came back and said “Well, since we’re up here–shall we go find those rainbows?”
HA! Classic. These guys stop at nothing to help you get those fish! Make plans now to visit Katmailand this summer.
(Photo: Don takes us on a boat ride on Grosvenor Lake for some late-night fishing.)
(Photo: Don gets a nice Char on the American River in Katmai National Park.)
(Photo: Cocktail hour at Grosvenor Camp.)
(Photo: Scott gets a nice Char on the American River. )
Oh, all the fishing is catch-and-release, fly-only. Don’t worry: nobody goes hungry. Although state law says you can harvest a bundle of fish each day, the lodge folks remind anglers that these are “Native, Wild Fish”. The areas never have been stocked. So don’t show up with a pocket full of Pixies and expect to go to town slinging metal from your spinning rod. HA!
Actually, they’ve got plenty of fly rods available for guests–along with guides to show you how they work. On a particularly blustery day, we even sat inside and tied some killer flies!
